Best Raspberry Varieties for UK Climate

Why your raspberry patch should work double time (and how to make it happen)

You’ve cleared your plot, dug in some compost, and planted a row of canes. Then you get a glorious four-week glut in July, followed by nothing. That’s not a harvest – that’s a tease. The real trick to getting the most from your patch is to stop treating summer and autumn raspberries as separate decisions. Instead, see them as a tag team. By combining the best raspberry varieties for UK climate from both groups, you can pick fresh fruit from late June straight through to the first frosts in November. That’s a five-month window, and it’s achievable on any plot, from a clay-heavy allotment in Yorkshire to a sandy patch in Kent.

Summer raspberries: the early workers

Summer-fruiting varieties are the sprinters. They throw all their energy into one concentrated crop over four to six weeks in June and July. For the UK climate, which swings from wet springs to sudden heatwaves, you need varieties bred for disease resistance and cold tolerance. The classic is Glen Ample. It’s spineless, which makes picking and pruning a joy, and it holds up well in heavy rain without turning to mush. It consistently yields around 4-5 kg per metre of row in trials by the James Hutton Institute. For a slightly earlier crop, try Glen Rosa – it starts a week before Glen Ample and has a firmer berry, ideal for freezing.

But don’t sleep on Tulameen. This Canadian-bred variety is the dessert favourite among commercial growers because of its sweet, aromatic flavour. It’s less vigorous than Glen Ample, so it needs richer soil and a sheltered spot. If you have a south-facing wall, plant Tulameen there for a real treat. Just be aware it’s more prone to raspberry beetle, so a netting plan is essential.

Cane support for summer raspberries: These canes grow tall (up to 2.5 metres) and get heavy with fruit. Use a post-and-wire system. Set 2-metre sturdy posts at each end of the row, with three horizontal wires at 60 cm, 120 cm, and 180 cm. Tie the canes individually to the wires with soft twine. This stops wind rock, which can break the roots and reduce next year’s crop.

Autumn fruiting: the reliable extension

Autumn-fruiting raspberries are the marathon runners. They fruit on the current season’s growth, so you cut everything to the ground in winter and get a fresh start in spring. This makes them far less prone to disease, as you remove all old wood. They also start cropping in August and, in a good autumn with a mild UK climate, can go into November. The standout here is Autumn Bliss. It’s been a British favourite for decades because it crops early (mid-August) and yields heavily. The berries are medium-sized but prolific.

For a longer season, try Joan J. This thornless variety is a recent breakthrough. It crops from late August until the first hard frost, and the berries are large, firm, and sweet. It’s also resistant to raspberry root rot, a common problem on heavy clay soils. If you have damp, poorly draining ground, Joan J is your best bet.

For something a bit different, Polka is a Polish variety bred for cold climates. It produces a massive quantity of small, conical berries that are perfect for jam. It’s also the most wind-tolerant autumn variety I’ve trialled, making it ideal for exposed plots.

Cane support for autumn raspberries: Because you mow them down each year, the canes don’t reach the same height. A simpler system works. Use short posts and two wires at 40 cm and 100 cm. Alternatively, use a single central post with a ring of string around the clump. Avoid the temptation to leave them un-staked – a heavy August rainstorm will flatten the lot.

Summer vs. autumn: the real difference in yield and effort

I get asked constantly: “Should I just grow autumns and forget summers?” Here’s the honest data from my own trials on clay loam over five years. The table below shows the average yield per cane and the labour hours per season. It might surprise you.

The key takeaway: autumns are lower maintenance and lower risk, but summers give you a denser, earlier crop. The real win is combining them. You get the intense summer hit for freezing and jam, then the steady autumn pickings for fresh eating.

Planting for success on UK clay and sand

Raspberries are shallow-rooted, so your soil prep matters more than the variety. On clay, the main issue is waterlogging in winter, which causes root rot. The fix is a raised bed or a mound of soil mixed with grit and well-rotted manure. On sand, the problem is drought stress in summer. You need to mulch heavily with compost or straw after planting.

For all soils, test your pH. Raspberries prefer a slightly acidic 6.0 to 6.5. If you’re above 7.0, incorporate sulphur chips or ericaceous compost. A simple soil test kit from Garden Organic costs about £10 and saves you years of poor cropping.

Plant spacing: 45 cm between canes in the row, 1.8 metres between rows. This gives airflow to reduce fungal diseases. Don’t cram them – I’ve seen plotters plant at 30 cm thinking they’ll get more fruit. You just get weak canes and a mouldy mess.

Pest and disease management without the chemicals

The biggest threat to your raspberry patch in the UK is the raspberry beetle. The small, brown beetle lays eggs in the flowers, and the larvae tunnel into the fruit. You’ll see a shrivelled, dry patch at the tip of the berry. The organic fix is simple: nematodes. A product like Nemasys Raspberry Beetle Control contains microscopic worms that kill the larvae in the soil. Apply in late April and again in June. It costs about £15 and covers 20 square metres – cheaper than wasting half your crop.

For grey mould (botrytis) in wet summers, the best prevention is spacing and pruning for airflow. If you see a fuzzy grey patch on fruit, remove it immediately and bin it (not compost). I also use Vitax Fungus Clear as a last resort, but only on autumn varieties after the first flush has been picked.

Birds: A simple frame of netting over the row is essential from when the first fruits colour up. Use 25mm mesh – anything smaller traps birds and hedgehogs. I use scaffold netting from a builders’ merchant; it’s cheap and UV-stabilised.

How to extend the season further with protected cropping

If you really want to push the boundaries, use a polytunnel or a simple cloche tunnel. Plant an early summer variety like Glen Coe under cover, and you can pick from mid-May. For the other end of the season, cover a late autumn variety like Joan J with a fleece tunnel in early October. This keeps the frost off and can add two to three extra weeks of picking. I’ve had raspberries on Christmas Day in a mild Yorkshire winter using this method.

Final planting strategy for your plot

Here’s the no-nonsense plan. Dedicate one 5-metre row to summer raspberries (mix Glen Ample and Tulameen) and one 5-metre row to autumn raspberries (mix Autumn Bliss and Joan J). That gives you continuous cropping from late June to November with minimal gaps. Support them properly, test your soil, and use nematodes. You’ll have more fruit than you can eat, share, or jam – and that’s the whole point.

For further reading on UK-specific trials, check the RHS raspberry growing guide and the Garden Organic factsheet for organic raspberry management. Both are evidence-based and tailored to our climate.